Climbing Annapurna I (8,091 m)
| Feature | Details |
|---|
| Mountain | Annapurna I Main (8,091 m / 26,545 ft) |
| Location | Annapurna Range, Gandaki Province, Nepal |
| First Ascent | June 3, 1950 - Maurice Herzog (France) |
| Climbing Season | Pre-monsoon (Apr-May) & Post-monsoon (Sep-Oct) |
| Climbing Duration | Approx. 40-50 days (with acclimatization) |
Fatality Rate: Historically the highest among all 8,000m peaks—over 70 lives lost, once close to 1:3 summit-to-death ratio.
Why Is Annapurna So Dangerous?
- Frequent avalanches and unstable snow conditions
- Sudden storms and narrow weather windows
- Technical glacier navigation and steep ice walls
- Remote Base Camp, limited rescue infrastructure
- Fewer climbers = fewer fixed ropes and less support
Route Details
| Route | North Face Route (standard) |
|---|
| Base Camp Altitude | ~4,130 m (via Annapurna Sanctuary) |
|---|
| Camp I | ~5,200 m |
|---|
| Camp II | ~5,700 m |
|---|
| Camp III | ~6,500 m |
|---|
| Camp IV / Summit Push | ~7,200 m to Summit |
|---|
Note: Climbers use fixed ropes, porters, and supplemental oxygen above 7,000 m.
Typical Itinerary (45-50 Days)
| Day Range | Activity |
|---|
| 1-3 | Arrival in Kathmandu, permits, gear checks |
| 4-8 | Trek to Base Camp (via Nayapul-Chhomrong-Machapuchare BC) |
| 9-35 | Acclimatization, rotation climbs, setting camps |
| 36-40 | Summit window and descent |
| 41-45 | Return trek or helicopter out, back to Kathmandu |
Permits & Costs
| Item | Approximate Cost |
|---|
| Annapurna Climbing Permit | $1,800+ (seasonal variation) |
| ACAP (Annapurna Conservation Area Permit) | NPR 3,000 |
| TIMS Card | NPR 2,000 |
| Total Expedition Cost | $15,000 - $25,000+ per person |
Required Gear
- Double-layer boots, down suits, crampons, ice axe
- Harness, helmet, jumar, ascenders
- Supplemental oxygen, satellite phone, GPS
- Tents, stoves, high-calorie food, medical supplies
Physical & Mental Requirements
- Experience on 6,000-7,000 m peaks (e.g. Island Peak, Aconcagua)
- Technical skills: ice/rock climbing, glacier travel
- High mental toughness, self-discipline, and risk tolerance
- Strong adaptation to low oxygen and freezing conditions
Annapurna vs Other 8,000ers
| Mountain |
Difficulty |
Death Rate |
Crowd Level |
| Everest |
High, but manageable |
~1-2% |
Very crowded |
| K2 |
Extreme |
~25% |
Remote and technical |
| Annapurna I |
Deadly |
~30-35% |
Least climbed |
Respect the Mountain
- Annapurna is sacred-linked to Hindu goddesses
- Treks around Annapurna (e.g., Annapurna Circuit) are more common
- Memorials near Base Camp honor fallen climbers